Tag Archives: fall rtw

from the runways: burberry prorsum

27 Feb

although fashion month is nearing its end, i’m bringing you one last review straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning!

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it seems that st. valentine – or, according to style.com, a more kinky purveyor of love lust – was on designer christopher bailey’s mind for autumn 2013. showing his collection for burberry just four days after february 14th, traces of that holy grail of affection dotted the lineup. heart prints, flesh-toned palettes and even a melancholy version of the turtle’s happy together saturated bailey’s show.

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but, as mentioned above, there was a more seedy side to the lineup. finding inspiration in the infamous sixties showgirl, christine keeler, who also partook in a slew of extra-curricular activities, if you catch my drift, bailey incorporated a bit more seduction into this season’s looks, which mainfested in the form of transparent vinyl skirts exposing heart-print undies and nude colored trenches concealing what can only be imagined as the absence of an outfit underneath.

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and while style.com writer tim blanks brought this dark muse to light, i’d prefer to stick with the more pg version. taking place in a sun-drenched greenhouse-esque venue, bailey’s show was a light, albeit slightly ironically woeful, production. his outwardly happy muse seemed to perhaps be covering an inner sadness with ensembles that would persuade the unassuming passerby otherwise – again referencing those heart-print separates mentioned above. a bit obvious? yes. but in the most intriguing way possible.

in any case, bailey impressed – for the most part – this season. while the leather fringe soaked in gilded grommets weren’t to my liking, the light collection with dark undertones was an overall success.

and if the surprise live performance from tom odell and accompanying chorus – the latter of whom were clad in all black trenches, naturally – didn’t catch your attention, the impeccably executed outerwear and proper-but-not-prim silhouettes certainly did.

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ed note: since i had to enjoy fashion month from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

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from the runways: calvin klein

25 Feb

although new york fashion week has sadly ended, i’ll be bringing you a few more reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning!

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 what is it about the calvin klein brand that keeps us enthralled season after season? is it designer francisco costa’s groundbreaking silhouettes? is it the line’s new-fangled textiles? is it the show-stopping production overwhelming the essence of the show?

so if it’s none of these, what is it? perhaps why we – and by we, of course i mean me – love a ck lineup so much is its sense of consistency. not to be confused with boring, the designs from this house are reliable. sure, you may see an interesting twist here or an eye-catching detail there, but what you really get from costa are pieces you can count on for the long haul.

and if that’s not a sign of a great line, i don’t know what is.

in an ode to that, costa sent out coats, dresses and trousers for autumn/winter 2013 all exuding that ck trustworthiness we’ve come to expect.

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simple yet impactful silhouettes complimented the strategically lit venue and pounding music wafting through the air. even feminine dresses had strong shoulders and architectural pleating.

the buckle seemed to be the focal point – or eye-catching detail, if you will – this season. dotting all the aforementioned ensembles, and even the shoes, this gilded accessory was the consistency vein running through the entire collection.

everything about a calvin klein show is executed with precision. the clothes right down to the models’ turn-on-a-dime struts around varied routes are calculated and structured. nothing is left to chance, and as a result, we know we’re gonna get something good.

and that, my friends, is what a costa-led presentation is all about.

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ed note: since i had to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

from the runways: badgley mischka

18 Feb

although new york fashion week has sadly ended, i’ll be bringing you a few more reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning!

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this season, design-duo mark badgley and james mischka gave a nod to the femme fatale spotlighted in the works of the insurmountable curator of darkness, alfred hitchcock.

this inspiration came off perfectly in the designers’ show last week. impending music cascaded through the dark drenched setting while smoke billowed from backstage, presenting models with sly looks and coy smirks who were undoubtedly up to something.

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the clothes were appropriately luxurious for the designers’ menacing muse. womanly silhouettes accented by fur stoles and jewel-encrusted necklines, waistlines and hemlines gave the indication that this was a lady who knew what she wanted. The color palette played up the devious nature of our star, as well, as silk, satin and lace ensembles were soaked in luscious shades of red, navy, gray and of course, black.

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alongside the few knee-length pencil skirts and cocktail dresses, an assortment of gowns were presented in true badgley mischka fashion. bathed in a sense of intrigue and seduction, there was something different about the gowns this season. as models descended the runway, the looks seemed ordinary, but as the pivotal turn was taken and the trek toward backstage commenced, entrancing back detailing gave a jolt of pleasure. how astutely executed were those skin-exposing slits and plunging reverse necklines.

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overall, badgley mischka’s fall 2013 collection was a success. while there wasn’t anything particularly profound this season, there were plenty of not-so-ordinary details, design elements, and of course that brooding nature of our muse, to satisfy our sartorial hunger.

ed note: since i had to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

from the runways: nanette lepore

14 Feb

it’s fashion week again, and in honor of the sartorially rich week, i’ll be bringing you reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning! 

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there’s something thrilling about settling in to watch a fashion show. what will the music be like? will there be a crazy light show? what beauty regime were the models put through? what will the story line be? and most importantly, how will the clothes look?

it’s often easy to forget, but fashion shows are still about the clothes. developing them, showing them, and hoping buyers will buy them and editors will write about them. but with the amazing productions that shows have turned into – lookin’ at you karl – it’s natural to get distracted from the very essence of why we all cram into bleacher like seats on days when the weather can only be described as treacherous.

nanette lepore and her team of producers did a nice job of keeping the balance between design showcase and fancy production. simple lights, backdrop and music did the trick as models paraded down her runway in non-overwhelming makeup and slicked back hair pulled into small twisted buns.

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but while the logistics of the show didn’t take over, there was still a good story to be told. lepore took us to mars for fall, using images of the recently news making mars rover as her inspiration. the music accompanied this muse quite nicely with its techno-space-agey notes and upbeat tempo.

the clothes and accessories were an appropriately scaled ode to outer space as well, featuring futuristic materials. there were iridescent tops, holographic purses, shoes and belts and some peculiar shimmer reminiscent of scales – perhaps lepore was trying to tell us something about her martian models?

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her looks were modest but still flirty. peeks of shoulder, collar bone and thigh indicated the lepore girl doesn’t mind a bit of intrigue, but still respects tasteful style.

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there were plenty of light weight trousers, skirts and arm baring tops, making the collection more suitable for early fall. but the abundance of outerwear – seems to be a theme this season – could easily carry our girl into the throes of october and november.

all-in-all, an interesting, boundary pushing collection for a designer who usually embraces the über girly. well done, ms. lepore.

ed note: since i’m having to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

from the runways: jenny packham

12 Feb

it’s fashion week again, and in honor of the sartorially rich week, i’ll be bringing you reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning! 

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jenny packham, one of the new kids on the fashion block – err, runway? – has left no lingering questions as to what design niche she wants to be a part of. from the bevy of delicious ball gowns that floated down her runway today, it’s clearly eveningwear packham thrives in.

and thrive did she ever today. the designer transported us into an eery setting reminiscent of a trippy cartoon romance. punchy fairytale-esque melodies with a techno edge accompanied dewy faced models as they moved robotically down the runway, looking like strange mechanical dolls.

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and packham’s looks perfectly suited this oddly entrancing scene. beautifully crafted gowns and sweet but not saccharin cocktail dresses filled the collection, reinforcing the designer’s tendency toward the glamorous.

there was an astute color gradation that equally caught my attention – starting out with a rose colored gown, the collection moved smoothly from blush to red to whites to black then navy and finally to an olivey-seafoam green (which sounds awful but is really quite pleasing). the colors were as much a part of the design element as the tailoring itself.

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and how ‘bout that tailoring? bewitchingly captivating, if you ask me. there was something about the fluid movements of packham’s gowns and the youthful yet seductive air of her cocktail dresses that i couldn’t take my eyes off of – the ruby red décolletage-baring dress particularly comes to mind. oh, and the off-the-shoulder black number.

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subtle hints of sensuality – exposed collar bones, bare sides and a peek at the small of the back thanks to low-slung necklines, sheer fabrics and keyhole cutouts – were peppered throughout the collection, further adding to packham’s credibility as a designer who doesn’t shy from intrigue.

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and while there was nothing particularly groundbreaking in this collection – hey, that’s entirely understandable for a designer still feeling out her path in the fashion world – the looks were divine nonetheless.

ed note: since i’m having to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

from the runways: marc by marc jacobs

12 Feb

it’s fashion week again, and in honor of the sartorially rich week, i’ll be bringing you reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning!

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it seems to me that marc is trying to tell a story about his perpetually youthful muse this season. perhaps once a wallflower, afraid to embrace the girl she knew she was deep down. perhaps a late bloomer, unsure if she would ever come into her own. perhaps once timid, mousy and painfully shy.

whatever the case, the marc by marc girl has sure grown up for autumn/winter 2013. while not going in the way of the sex play theme we see way too often nowadays, there was an unmistakable air of acknowledged advancement about jacobs’ looks.

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once flouncy skirts segued into curve hugging – a loose, respectful hug, mind you – silhouettes and slightly unflattering proportions bloomed into properly buttoned up blouses and trousers, with even a ladylike belt thrown in here and there.

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but this is not to say the lineup was boring, pious or elderly. the playfulness of the line rang true throughout the show’s entirety, reminding us that were indeed in the presence of a marc jacobs collection.

polka dots, plaid and stripes were all still there –just a bit grown up this time. attention hungry – and perhaps slightly jarring – color palettes became muted and scaled back. spritely shapes were refined and tailored down into internship appropriate looks (i say internship because there’s no doubt the mbmj girl is still in her youth). and that once uncertainty about how best to flatter her figure was transformed into confidence and wisdom.

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oh, and the fabrics – wool, satin and perhaps jersey (can’t quite put my finger on that last one). there’s something about the tactile this season, no?

not a bad lineup for the fall months. can’t wait to see these looks in real life. what’s your take?

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ed note: since i’m having to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

from the runways: rebecca minkoff

11 Feb

it’s fashion week again, and in honor of the sartorially rich week, i’ll be bringing you reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning!

the rebecca minkoff girl is a dream. hip, stylish, confident. and the designer’s autumn/winter 2013 collection certainly lived up that cool girl charm – right down to the live show by nashville duo, wild cub. that’s right – a live music performance right on the runway. how’s that for shaking things up?

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and speaking of shaking things up, minkoff employed an interesting muse for this season’s inspiration – none other than that american hero, neil armstrong. ms. minkoff dubbed her collection “an ode to neil,” according to style.com, and wove subtle hints of the space race era into her pieces. and i mean subtle in every sense of the word – i didn’t even realize the designer had her creative eye set on armstrong or space until style.com clued me into the word, “space,” sprawled across a t-shirt and spacesuit influenced elbow joints on a white leather jacket.

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but beside that small disconnect, everything else was in sync with the minkoff brand – fresh, young and flirty with an edge. true rebecca minkoff style.

as the first model stormed the runway after an intro from the aforementioned jam sesh sporting a white leather bomber and army green trouser shorts, it was clear this show would get your heart racing in more ways than one. i could feel my pulse rise in excitement as each look followed. there were thigh-skimming dresses intermingling with trousers for girls who don’t take themselves too seriously and skirts topped with sweaters for days when you just feel like being slouchy in the best way possible.

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but i would be sorely remiss if i didn’t mention the more-than-impressive outerwear present in almost every look. sumptuous leather to fur trimmed to all-over plaid in silhouettes ranging from waist length to floor length, and even a short sleeved black number, these pieces undoubtedly stole the show.

and that’s what fall is all about, am i right? the minkoff girl is definitely one i’ll be channeling come october.

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ed note: since i’m having to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.