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The Row Pre-Fall 2013

21 Aug

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Modesty seems to have made its way back into the fashion set this season (which is ironic, given the recent influx of midriff bearing crop tops – I’m sorry, I didn’t realize we were living in 1995. My mistake.). Tastemakers seem to be looking ahead to quieter sartorial statements with their Pre-Fall 2013 collections by way of conservative hemlines, minuscule heel height and nary a décolletage in sight. Case in point: the Olsens’ high-end line, The Row.

 The once tween-conscious sisters have certainly made a name for themselves in the luxury market with this line – which employs high-end furs, luscious fabrics and esteemed tailoring – and their Pre-Fall collection certainly does their reputation justice.

 Not only was the standard attention to detail and affinity for affluence present this season, a tendency toward propriety also made its way to center stage. Trousers were relaxed, skirts were long and the boxy silhouettes of tops and dresses certainly left much to the imagination (perhaps a bit too much?).

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 Without fail, the design team focused on construction and precision, delivering, yet again, a lineup that didn’t skip a beat. From the obviously autumnal plaid patterns to the earthy color palette, this collection will easily take The Row’s customer into the cooler months ahead.

 All photos from Style.com. Hop on over there to see the full collection and their take on the lineup.

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Chloé Pre-Fall 2013

15 Aug

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Remember when Hannah MacGibbon left the helm of Chloé and a new face took the reins (that new face being Clare Waight Keller – ok, so she’s not entirely new to the fashion set, having worked for Ralph Lauren, Gucci and Pringle of Scottland, to name a few)?

I’ll admit, I was a tad disgruntled at the shake-up – weren’t you? I’d fallen in love with the youthful femininity of MacGibbon’s Chloé (this is the collection that did it), and was afraid this new leader wouldn’t stay true to the reinstated girly appeal.

But time has proven me wrong (yes, I’ll admit it), and I’ve grown to not only appreciate, but truly enjoy, Keller’s designs. Different? Yes. Bad? Not in the least.

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Although not quite as bubblegum pink and bow heavy as MacGibbon (hey, I like bows, don’t judge), Keller certainly maintains Chloe’s habit of pronouncing the appeal of the fairer sex. Instead of ruffles, Keller prefers lace; instead of empire, Keller leans on a cinched waist; instead of punchy color palettes, Keller skews toward the more classic.

Case in point: her Pre-Fall 2013 collection presented in Paris earlier this year. While a 60s mod influence obviously motivated the designs this season, it was more of the put-together feel of Keller’s buttoned up looks that took center stage. A-line skirts, modest necklines and covered shoulders gave the collection a feel of propriety, while disheveled coifs sported by doe-eyed models let us know that Keller’s muse – in true Chloé girl form – doesn’t take herself too seriously.

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It seems as if the Chloé girl has grown up in the wake of Keller’s reign, and I have to say that I’m (gasp!) actually starting to prefer her aesthetic to that of MacGibbon. Maybe I’m growing up a little too.

All photos from Style.com. Hop on over there to see the full collection and their take on the lineup.

from the runways: burberry prorsum

27 Feb

although fashion month is nearing its end, i’m bringing you one last review straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning!

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it seems that st. valentine – or, according to style.com, a more kinky purveyor of love lust – was on designer christopher bailey’s mind for autumn 2013. showing his collection for burberry just four days after february 14th, traces of that holy grail of affection dotted the lineup. heart prints, flesh-toned palettes and even a melancholy version of the turtle’s happy together saturated bailey’s show.

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but, as mentioned above, there was a more seedy side to the lineup. finding inspiration in the infamous sixties showgirl, christine keeler, who also partook in a slew of extra-curricular activities, if you catch my drift, bailey incorporated a bit more seduction into this season’s looks, which mainfested in the form of transparent vinyl skirts exposing heart-print undies and nude colored trenches concealing what can only be imagined as the absence of an outfit underneath.

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and while style.com writer tim blanks brought this dark muse to light, i’d prefer to stick with the more pg version. taking place in a sun-drenched greenhouse-esque venue, bailey’s show was a light, albeit slightly ironically woeful, production. his outwardly happy muse seemed to perhaps be covering an inner sadness with ensembles that would persuade the unassuming passerby otherwise – again referencing those heart-print separates mentioned above. a bit obvious? yes. but in the most intriguing way possible.

in any case, bailey impressed – for the most part – this season. while the leather fringe soaked in gilded grommets weren’t to my liking, the light collection with dark undertones was an overall success.

and if the surprise live performance from tom odell and accompanying chorus – the latter of whom were clad in all black trenches, naturally – didn’t catch your attention, the impeccably executed outerwear and proper-but-not-prim silhouettes certainly did.

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ed note: since i had to enjoy fashion month from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

from the runways: badgley mischka

18 Feb

although new york fashion week has sadly ended, i’ll be bringing you a few more reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning!

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this season, design-duo mark badgley and james mischka gave a nod to the femme fatale spotlighted in the works of the insurmountable curator of darkness, alfred hitchcock.

this inspiration came off perfectly in the designers’ show last week. impending music cascaded through the dark drenched setting while smoke billowed from backstage, presenting models with sly looks and coy smirks who were undoubtedly up to something.

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the clothes were appropriately luxurious for the designers’ menacing muse. womanly silhouettes accented by fur stoles and jewel-encrusted necklines, waistlines and hemlines gave the indication that this was a lady who knew what she wanted. The color palette played up the devious nature of our star, as well, as silk, satin and lace ensembles were soaked in luscious shades of red, navy, gray and of course, black.

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alongside the few knee-length pencil skirts and cocktail dresses, an assortment of gowns were presented in true badgley mischka fashion. bathed in a sense of intrigue and seduction, there was something different about the gowns this season. as models descended the runway, the looks seemed ordinary, but as the pivotal turn was taken and the trek toward backstage commenced, entrancing back detailing gave a jolt of pleasure. how astutely executed were those skin-exposing slits and plunging reverse necklines.

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overall, badgley mischka’s fall 2013 collection was a success. while there wasn’t anything particularly profound this season, there were plenty of not-so-ordinary details, design elements, and of course that brooding nature of our muse, to satisfy our sartorial hunger.

ed note: since i had to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

from the runways: nanette lepore

14 Feb

it’s fashion week again, and in honor of the sartorially rich week, i’ll be bringing you reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning! 

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there’s something thrilling about settling in to watch a fashion show. what will the music be like? will there be a crazy light show? what beauty regime were the models put through? what will the story line be? and most importantly, how will the clothes look?

it’s often easy to forget, but fashion shows are still about the clothes. developing them, showing them, and hoping buyers will buy them and editors will write about them. but with the amazing productions that shows have turned into – lookin’ at you karl – it’s natural to get distracted from the very essence of why we all cram into bleacher like seats on days when the weather can only be described as treacherous.

nanette lepore and her team of producers did a nice job of keeping the balance between design showcase and fancy production. simple lights, backdrop and music did the trick as models paraded down her runway in non-overwhelming makeup and slicked back hair pulled into small twisted buns.

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but while the logistics of the show didn’t take over, there was still a good story to be told. lepore took us to mars for fall, using images of the recently news making mars rover as her inspiration. the music accompanied this muse quite nicely with its techno-space-agey notes and upbeat tempo.

the clothes and accessories were an appropriately scaled ode to outer space as well, featuring futuristic materials. there were iridescent tops, holographic purses, shoes and belts and some peculiar shimmer reminiscent of scales – perhaps lepore was trying to tell us something about her martian models?

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her looks were modest but still flirty. peeks of shoulder, collar bone and thigh indicated the lepore girl doesn’t mind a bit of intrigue, but still respects tasteful style.

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there were plenty of light weight trousers, skirts and arm baring tops, making the collection more suitable for early fall. but the abundance of outerwear – seems to be a theme this season – could easily carry our girl into the throes of october and november.

all-in-all, an interesting, boundary pushing collection for a designer who usually embraces the über girly. well done, ms. lepore.

ed note: since i’m having to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

from the runways: jenny packham

12 Feb

it’s fashion week again, and in honor of the sartorially rich week, i’ll be bringing you reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning! 

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jenny packham, one of the new kids on the fashion block – err, runway? – has left no lingering questions as to what design niche she wants to be a part of. from the bevy of delicious ball gowns that floated down her runway today, it’s clearly eveningwear packham thrives in.

and thrive did she ever today. the designer transported us into an eery setting reminiscent of a trippy cartoon romance. punchy fairytale-esque melodies with a techno edge accompanied dewy faced models as they moved robotically down the runway, looking like strange mechanical dolls.

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and packham’s looks perfectly suited this oddly entrancing scene. beautifully crafted gowns and sweet but not saccharin cocktail dresses filled the collection, reinforcing the designer’s tendency toward the glamorous.

there was an astute color gradation that equally caught my attention – starting out with a rose colored gown, the collection moved smoothly from blush to red to whites to black then navy and finally to an olivey-seafoam green (which sounds awful but is really quite pleasing). the colors were as much a part of the design element as the tailoring itself.

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and how ‘bout that tailoring? bewitchingly captivating, if you ask me. there was something about the fluid movements of packham’s gowns and the youthful yet seductive air of her cocktail dresses that i couldn’t take my eyes off of – the ruby red décolletage-baring dress particularly comes to mind. oh, and the off-the-shoulder black number.

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subtle hints of sensuality – exposed collar bones, bare sides and a peek at the small of the back thanks to low-slung necklines, sheer fabrics and keyhole cutouts – were peppered throughout the collection, further adding to packham’s credibility as a designer who doesn’t shy from intrigue.

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and while there was nothing particularly groundbreaking in this collection – hey, that’s entirely understandable for a designer still feeling out her path in the fashion world – the looks were divine nonetheless.

ed note: since i’m having to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.

from the runways: marc by marc jacobs

12 Feb

it’s fashion week again, and in honor of the sartorially rich week, i’ll be bringing you reviews and editorials straight from the runways in lieu of our regularly scheduled posts. happy fashioning!

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it seems to me that marc is trying to tell a story about his perpetually youthful muse this season. perhaps once a wallflower, afraid to embrace the girl she knew she was deep down. perhaps a late bloomer, unsure if she would ever come into her own. perhaps once timid, mousy and painfully shy.

whatever the case, the marc by marc girl has sure grown up for autumn/winter 2013. while not going in the way of the sex play theme we see way too often nowadays, there was an unmistakable air of acknowledged advancement about jacobs’ looks.

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once flouncy skirts segued into curve hugging – a loose, respectful hug, mind you – silhouettes and slightly unflattering proportions bloomed into properly buttoned up blouses and trousers, with even a ladylike belt thrown in here and there.

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but this is not to say the lineup was boring, pious or elderly. the playfulness of the line rang true throughout the show’s entirety, reminding us that were indeed in the presence of a marc jacobs collection.

polka dots, plaid and stripes were all still there –just a bit grown up this time. attention hungry – and perhaps slightly jarring – color palettes became muted and scaled back. spritely shapes were refined and tailored down into internship appropriate looks (i say internship because there’s no doubt the mbmj girl is still in her youth). and that once uncertainty about how best to flatter her figure was transformed into confidence and wisdom.

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oh, and the fabrics – wool, satin and perhaps jersey (can’t quite put my finger on that last one). there’s something about the tactile this season, no?

not a bad lineup for the fall months. can’t wait to see these looks in real life. what’s your take?

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ed note: since i’m having to enjoy nyfw from the comforts of my own home this season, please excuse my borrowing of photos from style.com. hop on over there for the full collection and their take on this season’s designs.